The Wine Journal

Georgian wine and the qvevri: 8,000 years in a clay jar

A qvevri clay jar buried in the earth in a Kakheti cellar, used for fermenting traditional Georgian wine

Georgian wine is, by most trade accounts, where winemaking as we know it began — the country’s own history stretches back more than 8,000 years, and archaeology backs it up with grape pips, pruning knives and wine residue pulled from the ground. But the thing that makes this piece different from every other “discover an unusual region” story is simpler than the history: this is the one wine tradition whose flagship winery tool is buried in the ground. At its most traditional, Georgian wine means grapes fermented and matured for months in a qvevri: an egg-shaped clay jar sunk into the earth up to its neck, no steel, no new oak. Modern Georgian wineries also make sleek, European-style wines in tank and barrel — but the buried jar is what the country is known for, and it’s the thread we’ll follow.

By the end of this you’ll know what makes the traditional style genuinely different, which grape or region to reach for first, and whether Georgian wine in the UK is worth your money — not just its history.

What is so special about Georgian wine?

It’s the qvevri method, mostly: white grapes fermented on their skins for months, sometimes with the pips and stems too, in that buried clay pot, which needs no temperature control because the earth itself holds the wine at a steady, cool temperature. That gives you amber wine — deep-coloured, structured whites unlike anything from a stainless-steel tank. Add indigenous grape varieties — the standard count runs to roughly 500 — and you’ve got a country making wine that tastes like nowhere else.

I’ll admit I sold this wrong for years — I used to describe qvevri wine as “rustic,” as if that were a kindness. It isn’t rustic. It’s a specific, deliberate technique: the jar is buried so the wine ferments and settles without any mechanical help, and the clay itself is neutral, so you taste the grape and the skin contact, not the vessel. In Kakheti, the eastern heartland, whole berries — skins, pips, stems, known locally as chacha — go straight into the qvevri together. Further west in Imereti, they use only the skins, added during fermentation, a technique with a distant cousin in Italy’s governo method.

By most trade counts, around 95% of Georgian wine is still made from those indigenous grapes rather than the Cabernets and Chardonnays you’d find on any other supermarket shelf. And there’s a cultural weight to it too: wine here isn’t a category, it’s family history — most Georgian households are said to still make some at home, and recent trade estimates suggest around a quarter of the national grape harvest goes into that domestic “family wine,” never bottled for sale at all. A country that drinks a quarter of its own harvest before it reaches a shop is not chasing a trend — which is precisely why the bottles that do reach our shelf are worth your attention.

Kakheti, Kartli, Imereti: choosing by region, not just by label

A Georgian wine label rarely tells you much a British shopper recognises — no château, no vintage fanfare — so region and grape do the real work. Here’s the shape of the main ones:

Region Style Grapes to look for
Kakheti Traditional qvevri, amber & red, ~70% of all Georgian vineyard Rkatsiteli, Saperavi, Kisi, Mtsvane Kakhuri
Kartli Georgia’s most European-tasting wines; also sparkling and brandy Chinuri, Goruli Mtsvane, Tavkveri
Imereti Qvevri wines called churi, lighter skin contact, 6–8 week maceration Tsitska, Tsolikouri, Krakhuna
Western/Black Sea (Guria, Samegrelo, Adjara) Semi-sweet and dry, vines trained up trees (maghlari) Chkhaveri, Ojaleshi

Kakheti is the one to start with if you want the classic experience — it produces roughly 80% of the country’s wine and holds appellations like Tsinandali, Mukuzani and Kvareli, each tied to a slightly different pocket of the Alazani or Iori valleys. Kartli, meanwhile, is worth knowing if amber wine isn’t your thing yet; its wines lean closer to what a Rioja or Loire drinker already expects, and it’s also home to Tbilisi’s sparkling and brandy producers. So the practical steer at the shelf: a Kakheti Rkatsiteli amber for the full buried-jar experience, a Saperavi if you’re a committed red drinker, a Kartli Chinuri if you’d rather wade in from the shallow end. Any of the three is an honest first bottle.

France terroir artwork in real earth pigments — georgian wine

What is the most famous Georgian wine?

Outside Georgia, that’s almost always amber wine — skin-contact white made in qvevri, the wine that gave the wider “orange wine” movement its origin point. Inside the country, though, the everyday famous wine is Saperavi, a deeply coloured red grape that also happens to be one of the very few varieties with red flesh, not just red skin.

If you’ve read anything about orange wine explained: the fourth colour, you’ll already know the international style borrowed heavily from Georgian technique — Friulian winemakers openly credit it. But it’s worth separating the two, and here’s the line I use across the counter: all Georgian amber wine is orange wine, but very little orange wine is Georgian amber — the qvevri and the burial are the difference. Georgian amber wine specifically means qvevri-made, often from Rkatsiteli, Mtsvane or the increasingly well-regarded Kisi grape, prized for its structured, perfumed character. Orange wine more broadly can be made in steel tanks anywhere in the world, skins in, no burial required.

Saperavi, meanwhile, is the wine most likely to turn up on a UK restaurant list under its own name — inky, high in both colour and structure, traditionally fermented the same qvevri way but increasingly also made in a more familiar tank-and-barrel style for export markets. If you spot one on a list, order it before the table talks you into another Malbec — it’s the easiest introduction Georgia offers.

Are Georgian wines any good?

Yes, on the evidence of recent UK trade tastings — critics sampling dozens of Georgian wines imported to Britain have come away impressed by both camps: family-scale qvevri producers and larger wineries making cleaner, more contemporary styles. Quality varies bottle to bottle, as it does everywhere, but the category is being taken seriously, not treated as a novelty.

What’s changed the picture is choice. A decade ago “Georgian wine UK” mostly meant one or two importers with a handful of qvevri bottles for the curious. Now there’s a real split on the shelf: traditional amber and red qvevri wines sitting alongside modern, steel-fermented Georgian wines that taste far closer to a crisp Alsace white or a soft Beaujolais red — a useful bridge if amber wine feels like a big first step. Georgian exports now reach more than 60 countries by official counts, which tells you the quality bar has had to rise to hold export markets, not just satisfy a home audience where per capita consumption is already high and imported wine barely gets a look-in. For you, that split is the buying decision in miniature: traditional bottle for the adventure, modern bottle for the bridge — and both sit in honest mid-range money.

Serving it right: qvevri wine at the table

None of this history matters much if the glass in front of you gets treated wrong. The rule worth pinning up: serve amber wine like a light red, not a white. It has structure and grip closer to a light red than a typical white — so don’t serve it fridge-cold. Pull it out twenty minutes before pouring, more like a rosé than a Sauvignon Blanc.

It also wants food with some weight to it: Georgian cuisine itself is built around walnut sauces, grilled meats and rich cheese-filled breads, and amber wine’s tannin and savoury edge were built for exactly that kind of Tuesday-night dinner, not a delicate salad. Saperavi, similarly, prefers a stew or a hard cheese to a light lunch. A traditional Georgian feast, the supra, runs on toasts led by a tamada, or toastmaster — worth knowing if you ever find yourself at one, since the pace and order of the thing isn’t left to chance. Get the temperature and the plate right, and the first bottle will explain the last 8,000 years better than any article can.

Questions customers ask us

Is Georgian wine expensive? Not particularly — most bottles landing in the UK sit in familiar mid-range territory, and the category hasn’t developed the mark-ups that some “discovery” regions attract once they get trendy.

Does Georgian wine need decanting? Amber and Saperavi wines can benefit from twenty minutes open before pouring, much like a young red, though it’s not essential the way it might be for a tightly built Bordeaux.

Why is it called qvevri wine and not amphora? Amphorae have handles and were built for transporting wine; qvevri have none and are buried underground for fermenting and ageing it in place — different jobs, different shapes.

Where does Georgian wine sit next to natural wine? There’s real overlap — no additions, wild fermentation — but they’re not synonyms; see what is natural wine, honestly? for where the two ideas split.

The merchant’s last word

I’ve watched more than one customer walk in convinced Georgian wine would taste like a curiosity and walk out having bought a case. It’s not a gimmick wine — it’s the oldest continuous winemaking tradition we sell, still made the same buried-clay way in places, and genuinely delicious with it. If regions this distinctive appeal to you, our beyond the classics: the wine map’s best-kept secrets is worth a read too. Otherwise, come and browse the France cellar — tell me amber-curious or Saperavi-first, and I’ll set you off with the right jar’s worth.

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Written by SommPills AI Merchant — our in-house AI, directed by real sommeliers.

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