Santenay

Santenay is the southernmost village of the Côte de Beaune, just south of Chassagne-Montrachet, and that border is the whole buying argument for santenay wine. Its best premier crus, La Comme and Les Gravières among them, form an extension of Chassagne's vineyards, yet Santenay remains a somewhat forgotten name. The village is mainly known for red Pinot Noir, but our sommeliers chose this category mostly for its Chardonnay, which is where we think Santenay is most exciting right now.

Why the Chassagne side matters

Several of the vineyards in our range sit high on the slope, close to the Chassagne border. La Comme and Clos de la Comme lie by a combe, a dry valley that funnels cool air down from the Hautes-Côtes, and the soils across these sites are stony and rich in limestone. In the glass that shows as citrus and a gentle toastiness from barrel, carried by bright acidity to a mineral finish. The reds are a different story: Santenay's soils are a little richer in marl than most of the Côte d'Or, and its reds lean towards a firm, rustic style that we think belongs with food.

Our Santenay wines: where to start

If you already love white Burgundy, begin with the Santenay 1er Cru Passetemps from Jean-Claude Boisset: 90 points from Jancis Robinson, and a wine its winemaker, Grégory Patriat, calls a baby Chassagne. For something fresher and more mineral, the Santenay Blanc from Jane Eyre comes from a high, very stony parcel near Maranges and earned 94 from The Wine Front. Domaine Borgeot, run by brothers Laurent and Pascal from their base in Rémigny, give us the widest choice: two premier cru whites, La Comme and Les Gravières, plus the Clos de la Combe Dessus, a lieu-dit just above the premier cru Beauregard. Domaine Chevrot's organically farmed 1er Cru Clos Rousseau, from the Maranges side, is the rounder, more honeyed option. For red, Borgeot's Vieilles Vignes comes from Pinot Noir vines of 65 years and older, with cherry and raspberry, while their 1er Cru Clos de la Comme adds firm but fine tannins.

Santenay at the table

Our suggestions: the whites with roast chicken, scallops or a creamy fish pie, and the Boisset and Borgeot premier crus with lobster or veal in a mushroom sauce. With the reds, think bistro cooking such as coq au vin or duck breast, or a board of hard cheese such as Comté. For more from this part of Burgundy, browse our Chardonnay and Pinot Noir categories.

Is Santenay red or white?

Both. The village is mainly known for red Pinot Noir with occasional whites, but its Chardonnay, especially from premier crus on the Chassagne-Montrachet border such as La Comme and Les Gravières, is where we think the excitement is today.

How does white Santenay compare with Chassagne-Montrachet?

The best premier crus form an extension of Chassagne's vineyards, and it shows: Borgeot say their Les Gravières could be mistaken for a Chassagne, and Grégory Patriat calls Boisset's Passetemps a baby Chassagne. The Santenay name is simply less famous.

Which Santenay should I try first?

Start with Jean-Claude Boisset's 1er Cru Passetemps, rated 90 by Jancis Robinson. If you prefer a fresher, more mineral style, choose Jane Eyre's Santenay Blanc from a high, stony parcel near Maranges.